Q. Consider the following statements about Oceanic waves:
1. Waves are movement of energy rather than movement of water particles.
2. Water particles in a wave travel in small circles.
Which of the statements given above is/are correct?
Red Book
Red Book

[A] 1 only

[B] 2 only

[C] Both 1 and 2

[D] Neither 1 nor 2

Answer: C
Notes:

Oceanic Waves

  • Waves are actually the energy, not the water as such, which moves across the ocean surface.
  • Water particles only travel in a small circle as a wave passes.
  • Wind provides energy to the waves.
  • Wind causes waves to travel in the ocean and the energy is released on shorelines.
  • The motion of the surface water seldom affects the stagnant deep bottom water of the oceans.
  • As a wave approaches the beach, it slows down. This is due to the friction occurring between the dynamic water and the sea floor. And, when the depth of water is less than half the wavelength of the wave, the wave breaks.
  • The largest waves are found in the open oceans. Waves continue to grow larger as they move and absorb energy from the wind.

Source: NCERT

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